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Goblin Street's Guide to the Art of Goblins!

Discussion in 'League and Team Development Tactics' started by Street, Nov 7, 2015.

  1. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    The Art of Goblins:

    I decided to try and make a guide based on my expirence having played Primarily Goblins for almost 3 years now in Cyanides bloodbowl video game. I don't think I am a great coach, I do like to think I am at least competent and generally make the right choices during a match.

    I am starting to feel like at the next chance I get, I should set focus to a new race to play for awhile. I have found myself prefering races which have disadvanatages in one way or another, torn between any of Ogres, Vampires or Khemri. However my current Big Crunch team is in a good position, so I won't be changing away from them just yet.

    The reason I stated the above is I then thought, I should sum up the knowledge I have gained with my goblin teams I have played so far. General ways to build the team and to try and be successful, while still accepting you won't win as much as if you played say, Woodelves. But you can have a lot of fun even in defeat.


    (Guide itself starts here)

    So, without making this too much of a wall of text, lets get started with a look at the roster:

    Goblins (0-16) 40k 6/2/3/7 A/GSP
    Right Stuff, Dodge, Stunty

    Fanatic (0-1) 70k 3/7/3/7 S/GAP
    Ball & Chain, No Hands, Secret Weapon, Stunty

    Pogoer (0-1) 70k 7/2/3/7 A/GSP
    Dodge, Stunty, Very Long Legs, Leap

    Looney (0-1) 40k 6/2/3/7 A/GSP
    Chainsaw, Secret Weapon, Stunty

    Bombardier (0-1) 40k 6/2/3/7 A/GSP
    Bombardier, Secret Weapon, Stunty, Dodge

    Troll (0-2) 70k 4/5/1/9 S/GAP
    Loner, Always Hungry, Really Stupid, Mighty Blow, Regeneration, Throw Team-Mate

    Rerolls are 60k pre creation, 120k post.


    So, as we can see the team is mostly weak, you can only have 3 strong players on your roster, 2 of them are unreliable loner trolls, the other is a secret weapon which can't stay on the pitch if knocked over.

    Despite this, your main method to winning a game is by bashing to reduce the enemy numbers. How do you do this? Get in hits where you can with your trolls, where you will want to engineer 3 dice blocks whenever possible, when recieving, the fanatic can also help a lot making anywhere from zero to 5 blocks a turn (If you want to risk go for its)

    After bashing with your stronger guys, you need to foul whenever the chance to safely do so comes up, preferably only against more valuable players if the opponent lets you. Learning when to foul and when not to takes time and isn't easy for me to explain in a guide like this.

    The other important factor into winning games in inducements. Inducements for most teams just help more or less shift the balance to a neutral ground between 2 teams of different value. For goblins, it is almost a requirement to be getting some (It isn't as I have had plenty of matches without inducements, or giving away inducements that still went great for me)

    The ideal inducements I like to get is anywhere between 100k and 420k. Which is 2 bribes at 100k up to 3 bribes + Ripper. As you get bribes at half the value than other teams, they are the most valueable inducement you can get, but only if you put them to good use!


    ---------------------------------------------------------
    TV 1000 builds:

    The TV 1000 guide on BBTactics has this done quite well, but I will go through it in my own way.

    As pretty standard, you will want at least 11 non secret weapon players if you want even a chance of winning matches, I also find 3 rerolls is plenty for goblin teams as I generally don't use rerolls on my trolls blocks due to loner (And I try to make 3 dice blocks whenever possible to greatly minimise the need to avoid a turnover on them) so the rerolls generally just get used on ball handling, ttm landings / the troll when throwing if at the end of a half, or secret weapons failing a roll.

    So 760k cash is spent on:
    9 Goblins, 2 trolls and 3 rerolls.

    I generally prefer to go to 10 goblins to guantee a bench player to account for likely injuries / KOs you will sustain, then a fanatic taking you to 870k TV.

    In a new league, against a mixture of agile and bashy teams, I would just leave it at this, keep the extra 130k tv in the bank, you get 2 bribes in your first game against most teams, even if they are on a build that goes just under 1000 tv. Which lets you keep your fanatic on longer if you are forced to field him when you may not want to, and foul quite a bit more freely as well.

    The other option is to swap out a normal goblin for a pogoer, taking you to exactly 900k tv. I have done this plenty of times myself, and he makes a great ball handler early on, just generally once he dies, or if he gets 2 to 3 level ups without anything special, he is off the team for me.


    In a more developed league, or if most your opposition are bash or mostly agile, then I would go for one of the following:
    Both situations add 1 more normal goblin, then if you will be facing mostly agile low av teams, take the chainsaw, if you are facing mostly AG3 or less / bash teams, take the bomber. Both of these add 80k to the 870k you had before, bringing you to a nice 950k tv for 1 bribe even if you face a 1000TV team.


    The bomber is very fun, but also the one which can backfire against your team the most, due to fumbling the bomb throw, or it being caught / intercepted and thrown back at you. As goblins are stunty and as such, get a -1 to passing, even against an AG3 team, you are at a disadvantage if you get into a game of hot potato with the bomb being thrown back and forth between you and the other team.


    As for what you buy down the line, the advice for the 950k tv build applies as a good point, generally though you want to get to a 14 /15 player roster (Normally 15 but you can sack a normal goblin in those rare games you can take Morg and ripper) with 2 players being secret weapons, giving you 13 non secret weapon players (or 14 if you have Ripper with you)

    As for if you get to this stage in a league against a mixture of bash and agile teams, I honestly recommend taking the Looney over the bombardier, it is slightly more reliable, is a good guy to foul AV9 players with before you get a DP, and is your best positional most the time for taking down blodge / wrodgers. Even an AV9 player gets taken down by a chainsaw slightly more times than it won't be thanks to the +3 vs the armour roll it makes, meaning your 2d6 vs an AV9 players armour needs to be 7 or higher.

    When the bomber works, he works VERY well. Feel free to take him over the chainsaw for fun factor, but I generally find him too unreliable for my tastes.

    I think that does it for team building information I can think of the top of my head, but any questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to responde.
     
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  2. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    Skill builds:

    Now lets get into a breakdown of each of the players you can build a team from, starting with the non-secret weapons:

    Goblins:
    With only access to agility skills on a normal roll there isn't a great deal to talk about here. In fact, I am going to be very lazy and link to Coach's BBTactics article, which goes through the options in great detail : http://bbtactics.com/goblins/

    In fact, while looking for the above link, the comment from a coach called Dalryk whoms blog I read a lot early on when I started on bloodbowl, has pretty much the same insight and conclusion I came to from playing goblins myself.

    Quote:
    "TV management is key with goblins. You need bribes to maximise your fouling and secret weapon game, and if you can induce a 3rd (or 4th) Big Guy your chances are dramatically increased.
    On top of that, Agility skills on their own aren’t very good. A goblin with 4 ordinary skills costs as much TV as 3 unskilled goblins, and isn’t substantially any more useful on the pitch.
    Combine these facts, and my preference (treasury permitting) is to fire any goblin that gets to level 3 without doubles or an +Ag upgrade. +Av/Mv are never worth the TV cost, and even +St is too expensive to be worth it, unless the goblin already has Block/Wrestle."


    This is exactly what I have endded up doing, the moment a goblin can be fired at level 3 or above and replaced with a rookie to save me 40k tv and make a difference in inducements, I take it. As in the same lines of Dalryk's comment, a goblin with 2 normal skills is the same cost as 2 unskilled goblins. Sure a sidestep + diving tackle goblin could be useful on occasion, it isn't something that drastically ruin your lives of your opponents that often, and having more bodies to throw into a game the better.


    Pogoer:

    The pogoer is an interesting choice value wise. He loses right stuff, so he cannot be thrown by a troll, but gains very long legs, leap and +MA, for only the TV increase a normal goblin would get from a +MA level up roll.

    So on paper this sounds great. In reality, it is a nice player to have and I start most teams with one. But generally when they die, they don't get replaced. The 70k cost although good value for money, is too much for my tastes to keep spending when im constantly replacing 40k goblins as it is.

    The one thing to point out is that they have very long legs + leap, which means they can leap on a 3+ roll. Which is the same odds as any dodge roll they make (If there isn't diving tackle or prehensile tail present) Though this seems useless as they have stunty and dodge, meaning they can just 3+ dodge through people anyway, it has a use in that if you need to get passed a tackle player, which negates your free dodge reroll, or if your dodge reroll has already been used up, you can use the leap to cut corners and make less rolls to travel the same distance with the same success chance. Though this is still a bit too situational for my tastes, at least having this option doesn't make him more expensive that a +MA goblin.

    As for skills, I would generally take these:
    Normal:
    Sidestep / Surefeet, Surefeet / Sidestep, Sprint
    Doubles:
    Block/Sure hands/Wrestle
    Stats:
    +MA / +AG / +ST (Only if you already took wrestle to make him your blitzing goblin for some reason)

    The pogoer makes the ideal player on a starting team to attempt the pick up and then hand off to a normal goblin when attempting a TTM one turn touchdown due to his extra movement.


    Trolls:

    The Trolls, your extra muscle to give you a small fighting chance in the blocking game, more so when combined with your fanatics ST7!

    They have really stupid, needing a non really stupid teammate next to them to have a good chance of doing your action you request of them, which is anyone but your other troll (Yes Ripper / Morg counts as a smart teammate for really stupid check!)

    Most teams, it is common practise to only use your big guy near the end of your turn, due to having loner and a nega trait, sometimes not using them at all is the best course of action.

    Sadly, with goblins, you really need your trolls to be used almost every turn, they need to be hitting things, marking key players and hopefully not getting taken down.

    They also generally are going to be trying to be part of your cage when advancing down field, or at least, screening the cage itself to some degree to take the pressure off your amazing goblins.

    As such I will show my prefered skill build before going into the details of why:

    Normal:
    Break tackle, Guard, Standfirm / Strong arm
    Doubles:
    Pro, block, tackle / pass
    Stats:
    +ST (Only would do this after having at least block, generally would just use the doubles given by it instead)

    As you can see, I priorities Break tackle, before guard and Pro before block. This is because I feel the Trolls need to be active more than big guys of most other races.

    I don't think you could be wrong taking guard and block over pro and break tackle, it is just my preference, in a more bash heavy league I would certainly lean more this way.

    Other than the above information, I imagine the general use of the trolls should be straight forward, try to engineer your blocks to be 3 dice when possible. The only other tip is that in the Cyanide client, you can move your trolls before declaring to use them for a throw team mate attempt, as a throw team mate is a pass action, which you can only do once per turn, moving the troll first and checking if they pass the really stupid test is a good way to increase your success rate ever so slightly. Honestly though, you should be using Ripper for the attempts in any game you have him, as he doesn't even need to make the really stupid or always hungry checks.
     
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  3. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    Secret weapons:
    Fanatic:


    Ah the fanatic, one of my favourtie positionals, in theory he can make 5 blocks a turn if you want to risk 2 go for its and get lucky with his slightly random movement.

    For those which do not know, you pick one of the 4 cardinal directions you wish to move, a dice roll then decides which of the 3 squares in that direction, (The square you choose to go to, and the 2 diagonal movements either side of it) and this is where you end up.

    So obviously, if the opposition sets all 3 players on the LoS next to each other, you can guarentee at least 1 block with him on his first movement by putting him in the middle infront of all of them. This is why the fanatic is general used when recieving a kick off, and not when kicking.

    Now, it is more common, when coaches who are used to facing fanatics, for them to set all 3 players on the LoS as far apart as possible to minimise the usefulness of the fanatic on your first turn.

    Below is an example of how they line up, X's are empty squares, P's are opposition players on the LoS:

    XXXPXXPXXPXXX

    Now, the way I responde to this is as follows:

    XXXPXXPXXPXXX
    XXTGGFXFGGTXX

    Key:
    G = Goblin
    T = Troll
    F = Fanatic

    Obviously, you only have the fanatic in one of the 2 positions shown, generally which ever side has the most valueable player on the LoS, if they are equal then either side works.

    You then simple take a block with your troll, for example if you set your fanatic slightly to the left, after your troll block, where you need atleast a push you get this situation:

    XXXTPXPXXPXXX
    XXXGGFXXGGTXX

    Now the fanatic is positioned to have 2 of his 3 movement options forward to hit a player, even if you took the first player you hit with your troll to the floor, the fanatic simply makes a free armour roll if he moves into that players spot, if you removed that player from the pitch, you are only slightly worse off in that there is a 1/3 chance after your first movement, you won't be next to another player for your second movement, but considering that means you removed a player from the pitch for this to happen. I don't get mad about it when it does.

    As for the rest of the drive, simply try to get him to move slowly down field, or towards a cluster of players he can hit / mark up well, if the opposition stays away from him like they commonly do, use him as a path marker, following his progression down the field and keeping him as one of your cage corners where possible.

    For skills:
    Normal:
    Mightyblow/Grab/Guard/Standfirm
    Doubles:
    Block/Sure Feet/Tackle
    Stats:
    +MA

    You have to take block on first doubles level up, it helps save you rerolls and makes it so the other team will rarely try 2 dice against block on him unless it is with a wrestle player.

    For his normal skills, the ones listed are pretty much the only skills he can use from his normal access, he can't hold the ball so strong arm is worthless, he can't blitz so juggernaut does nothing, he doesn't dodge so break tackle is useless, and he is always KO'd or worse when knocked down so thick skull is a waste. Multiblock doesn't work either. You can take pile-on, but using it will KO him from the pitch.

    Fortunately, I see to love rolling doubles on my first level up with fanatics to get block early. So surely you all can too!

    I don't like taking Sure feet but I left it there as an option, it can give you up to 2 extra hits a turn, but you still have that 1/36 chance to fail each GFI even with a free reroll, and when you have the skill, you will attempt them a lot more than normal.

    Looney:

    The Looney, also simply refered to as the Chainsaw, due to the fact he uses, well a chainsaw...

    There doesn't seem to be much to say about the Looney at first, it seems obvious. You roll a D6 that preferably doesn't have a 1 present on it. Then when you don't roll a 1, make your armour roll vs the player you are hitting with a +3 modifier. If you don't break armour, you are left standing next to the player you tried to hit.

    It is worth saying that the Looney can blitz, but once he has made a chainsaw hit attempt, he cannot move again afterwards, even if he knocks the opponent down. So you will want to blitz to hit the player from a position, you can ideally screen the looney away easily if he knocks them down. If he doesn't knock them down, you pretty much have to accept he will get hit, unless the player you blitzed was next to another one of your players who can still take a block action.

    So who to hit, generally lower AV players with skills that make them hard to knockdown (Blodgers), the looney will still break armour slightly more often than it won't vs AV9, but the lower armour you can be hitting the better.

    In addition to all of the above that you need to know, it is also worth knowing that the chainsaws +3 modifier to armour rolls work when fouling, and is applied against himself whenever he is knocked over / falls over in anyway.

    Finally, although he has stunty, he cannot dodge into tackle zones without penalty due to having a secret weapon, meaning he can't just 67% chacne dodge into a cage to hit the ball carrier.

    Hopefully this gives you the knowledge to understand the use of the Looney.

    Next up, the skills to take:
    Normal:
    Dodge ... Leap?
    Doubles:
    Dirty player / Block
    Stats:
    None, maybe +AG if first roll...

    If you get doubles on first level up, I recommend Dirty player, he makes a great player for fouling high armour players, in addition, in Cyanides Bloodbowl, if he rolls a 1 on the chainsaw roll when fouling, then rolls doubles on his own armour / injury roll, he gets sent off, undoing any casality he may have sustained from hitting himself. Fairly certain this is a bug and not an intended feature.

    If he rolls normal, well he doesn't start with the dodge skill, so taking that helps for moving around and to lower his chance of being taken down.

    After this, I honestly fire and rehire the looney if he rolls normals for his second level up. Due to being a secret weapon that gets sent off a lot, and also is easily injuried off the pitch due to being hard to protect, keeping his team value down is the most logical. If you do want to take more skills, I would go for sidestep and then Surefeet. Sidestep means if they hit him and don't knock him down, you can make sure he stays next to someone to hit on your turn.

    If you are more daring, or if you roll +AG first, you may want to take leap, for leap chainsawing into a cage. Even with +AG it is only a 67% success chance for the leap, without it 50% so unreliable but amusing when it works. Just don't expect a leaping chainsaw to last long, he will fail a leap sooner or later, or be simply killed by one of the cage corners he is next to after attempting this.

    Bombardier:

    Ah the bomber, I have gone through many of these looking for one to take hail mary pass.

    The bombardier is by far, the most unreliable secret weapon of the 3, but also the one which can have the biggest impact in the rare situation all the rolls it makes goes perfectly.

    The bomb is a mixture of passing the ball, combined with a wizard, with the only differences between it and a wizard fireball is, it won't always go exactly where you tell it to, and the target on the middle point of the 9 squares effected always makes an armour roll, though if they catch the bomb, they need to fumble the attempt they have to throw it for that to happen.

    The other 8 squares around the bomb, have the 50% chance to knockdown anyone in them, then it makes an armour roll as normal.

    This all sounds like great chaos I am sure! The unreliablity is why this is generally the secret weapon I skip. The bomber has stunty so he can't throw the bomb that well, and needs doubles for any of the skills which could help with it, I do wonder if bombardiers would be over powered if they had passing access on normals.

    The important thing to realise why bombers are hard to use, they can't move and throw a bomb in the same turn, as such this means you are either dangeourly close before the turn you plan to throw a bomb to have even half reasonable throwing odds, or you are making a longer throw which is more likely to scatter / fumble. This is also a problem in if he gets marked, he has an even harder time throwing a bomb or has to dodge away and give up the throw for the turn (Or you have to use your blitz to free him from being marked.)

    Normal:
    Jump up
    Doubles:
    Hail Mary pass > Pass or Accurate > Safe Throw > Pass Or Take pass first and only use it to reroll fumbles.
    Stats:
    +AG Maybe, a bit bloaty for the gain though.


    Jump up, in the Cyanide clinet, allows you to throw a bomb after standing up, this isn't how it should work I believe, but hey. Goblins need any advantage they can take!

    After this, no other skill really helps, Sidestep could maybe help, but chances are you will still be left in contact unless they choose not to follow up a block / blitz, plus if he is getting hit he likely won't be on the pitch much longer, or at least not useful for throwing bombs anyway.

    As for doubles, I put a few options but really you can only expect 1 doubles if any. Which has to be hail mary pass or pass. Haily mary pass gives you the ability to throw bombs anywhere on the field on a 2+ roll, but it will scatter up to 3 squares in any direction from where you pick, so rare to hit what you want and can easily hit your own players if not planned for.

    Pass can be used to help just get the bombs thrown, not caring if they scatter or not. Rerolling a scattered bomb throw would give a good chance to still then scatter or worse fumble it, depending on the range.

    Up to yourself if you take a bomber, they can be very fun and very effective when things go right, sadly in my expirence the going right part isn't too often, but if I was in a very low AG league I would likely try using them more than I do currently.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2015
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  4. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    That pretty much sums everything up that ive learned from playing goblins. It may not be the best way to play them, or the most fun. But I find my expirences generally fun enough, and gives me the best chance to win games.

    Feel free to give any feedback, as I haven't really ever written a guide for anything before, and any questions.

    If any thing further comes up that seems good to cover as a section, I will edit it into this post. (The others are all near the character limit)
     
  5. mamutas

    mamutas Super Moderator Moderator

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    Very nice!
    Could you perhaps can make a PDF out of it? I'd like print it and frame it. ;)
     
  6. sbr32

    sbr32 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice guide Street. I haven't played Goblins at all, but have always been curious.
     
  7. LloydsGamble

    LloydsGamble Active Member

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    Nice one, Street. Good read.

    Haven't got round to Goblins myself either, but like sbr, I'm curious. They'll be my first pick for a 'relief' team when I feel like I need it.
     
  8. TravelScrabble

    TravelScrabble Well-Known Member

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    Nice job Street, but I didn't see a guide to goblin inducements in there - that would be very useful to add.
     
  9. Werebat

    Werebat Well-Known Member

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    Sweet! I'm Hella busy today, but am marking this to read at my nearest opportunity! Looks like fun!
     
  10. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    Thank you all for the comments.

    A good point, I will see if I can add something full for it in the future. In the mean time my general priority for inducements are as follows:
    Ripper > Bribes > Morg > Babes > Wizard > Dribblesnot

    That is the main things, but it can all change depending on the situation, amount of inducements you can get, who you are against etc.
     
  11. Borke

    Borke Well-Known Member

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    Very nice guide, Street! :)

    Having played the superior Goblin variety for so long (Underworld), I'm probably not going to touch Goblins as a team in a while, but I do find the team's strategy intriguing. And when I start a Gobbo team, I'll probably go down the "fun" route first: Bombardier for sure, and Leap as a first skill on the Looney :p

    Regarding the inducement strategy: I think an interesting format could be a long table of 10k increments, where you have the "standard" inducements for that amount in each line, along with perhaps comments. A lot of work, I know, but maybe something to do on a long winter evening!
     
  12. Mr Suplex

    Mr Suplex Member

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    This is an awesome thread! Thank you!

    What are some good Goblin defensive formations against both bashy and agility teams? I feel good about how to set up on offense, but not quite as sure what to do on defense, especially with the fanatic.
     
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  13. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    My advice is avoid using the fanatic on defense if possible. He is just to easily left away from the action with his limited and semi-random movement. He is far better on offense as you can build you cage and advance down the field along with him.

    Generally I prefer to set up with most my players in the middle, keeping anyone valueable like goblins with +AG, or double skills like wrestle and DP, plus any secret weapons I am fielding in the centre and having all my unskilled goblins screening them off from being hit at the start. If someone goes down a sideline it is easier to try and box them in and hopefully get a few hits in somewhere and maybe some fouls.

    Its hard to give much more advice than that as it always depends on the players you and your opponent have avalible.
     
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  14. Supa

    Supa Well-Known Member

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    Heyo, do you have any experience with goblins on tabletop? I was just wondering that what do you think of their new positionals.

    0-1 Doom Diver 60k MA6 ST2 AG3 AV7 Right Stuff, Stunty, Swoop*
    Agility on normal, G, S and P on doubles

    0-1 'Ooligan 70k MA6 ST2 AG3 AV7 Disturbing Presence, Dodge, Fan Favourite*, Right Stuff, Stunty
    Agility on normal, G, S and P on doubles

    New skills:
    - Fan Favourite: The fans love seeing this player on the pitch so much that even the opposing fans cheer for your team. For each player with Fan Favourite on the pitch your team receives an additional +1 FAME modifier for any Kick-off table results, but not for the winnings roll.
    - Swoop: This player is equipped with a rudimentary set of wings, either natural or engineered, allowing them to glide through the air (rather than plummeting gracelessly) if they are thrown by a team-mate. If a player with Swoop is thrown by a player with the Throw Team-mate skill, the Throw-in template is used instead of the Scatter template to see where they land. Each time the player scatters, their coach places the Throw-in template over player facing up or down the pitch or towards either sideline. Then they roll a D6 and move the player one one square in the indicated direction. In addition, when rolling to see whether the player lands on their feet (as per the Right Stuff skill), add 1 to the result. When a player with both the Swoop and Stunty skill dodges, they do not ignore any modifiers for enemy tackle zones on the square they are moving to - the presence of a large pair of wings negates any benefit they would gain from being small and slippery.

    Personally I love their concept, especially 'Ooligan. Really hope to get my hands on a goblin team one day (your great guide has only made me hungrier to play with those fools). However, do they bloat the team too much in your opinion? Ripper and bribes are probably still a priority. One of those guys might replace a Pogoer too in the beginning.
     
  15. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    I haven't got any table top expirence with them, but the doom diver certainly seems a must for TTM plays, would replace the pogoer with him for sure.

    'Ooligan seems like a really fun piece, even if not really that great for his price. If up against a lot more expienced teams I can certainly see him being worth the extra 30k cost than a normal goblin. Certainly worth having vs other teams that go for TTM plays just to put him behind LoS to distrupt the hand off / TTM pass with his presence.

    Always nice to see other coaches who love goblins. :)
     
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  16. cjblackburn

    cjblackburn Well-Known Member

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    My two pence on the Doom Divers is they aren’t really for one turners. The lack of dodge and stunty dodging means that if a opponent sets up right it’s easier to just use a normal Gobbo. However what they are good for is when things go wrong late in a drive. They can be punted into the open easily as they can help direct were they land so they are likely to end up where they cannot be got at easily. So they do become your primary ball carrier doing a better job than the pogoer.

    The ‘Ooligan I am not convinced by. Maybe if you know you are playing lots of Elves in a row but there are expensive for what they do.
     
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  17. Street

    Street Well-Known Member

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    The trick with doom divers for one turning is, normally the anti TTM play is to set up a lot in the middle line of your own half (The normal landing spots) as this makes landing more difficult.

    If they make a line at the back, to hurt the doom divers dodging, you just throw a normal goblin instead, if they do the normal anti TTM set up, the doom diver can more reliably aim to get a better landing and not need to dodge through tackle zones.

    At only 20k more than a normal goblin and not being a secret weapon he is certainly worth it to be on paper. Would need to try it in practice more to get a better idea though.

    Agreed with the 'Ooligan, but if you are already down a lot of TV or like you said, the extra 30k cost can be worth it maybe more for the fan fav bonus to help favourable kick off event chances more than anything else.
     
  18. Supa

    Supa Well-Known Member

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    Good points from both of you. I was also concerned that Doom Diver cannot use Stunty on his dodges, but he does indeed mess up with your opponents plans. So you basically pay 20k more to make your normal gobbo's TTM chances better. I guess he might occasionally be used as a desperate act on your turn 8/16 while on the offence and you just cannot score and somehow haven't lost the ball. Even rarer case could be him thrown towards the opponent's ball carrier or his cage corners, though that might be a bit too far-fetched.

    I honestly think that both of the positionals should see some play at some point during the team's development. Too bad that Pogoer has to make room for Doom Diver though. It'd be fun to use all 3 specialized gobbos at once, but it probably is the least competitive way to go (atleast when you start with your team). ;)
     
  19. Toxic Bunny

    Toxic Bunny New Member

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    Thanks for this. It's been a marvelous read to get started for my local league. Not sure how far I'm going to get but, I am going to have fun playing :)
     
  20. comfort_eagle

    comfort_eagle Active Member

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    Yo @Street - I just found this thread in the footer of your posts, and thought I'd come take a look as a fellow gobbo enthusiast. Am excited to know you're starting a fresh gob team this season - wish you all the luck in the world! I'll try to catch some of your replays this season. Some possible areas to flesh out if you get time (for those interested in more in-depth gobbo play) might include:

    -strategies for controlling the clock/use of bribes (incl. if/when you should aim to score when receiving first)
    -how to best set up for 1ttd
    -secret weapon strategies post-set up
    -when/if one should try throw a gobbo as a projectile into an enemy
    -when to screen vs. when to cage
    -aggression vs. keeping valuable pieces safe

    peace brother!
    Comfort